Monthly Archives: August 2016
The principal advantage to the home nursery worker is the chance to develop and utilize a portion of the brilliant garlic assortments at times, if at any point, found in the grocery stores and infrequently even at farmer?s markets or roadside stands. Out of more than 600 sub-assortments, just 2 are regularly found in supermarkets. In the event that you like cooking and eating garlic, extend your collection!
The second advantage (other than eating the garlic) is the developing garlic has common fungicide and pesticide properties. Garlic partner planting is particularly advantageous to lettuce by dissuading aphids, and to cabbage. Garlic oil is viable at repulsing and notwithstanding murdering snails and slugs.
And ensuring different plants, garlic can likewise enhance their flavor. Beets and cabbage are accounted for to be great allies that advantage from this. In any case, not all sidekick planting with garlic is valuable. Garlic doesn’t coordinate well with vegetables, peas or potatoes so don’t plant your garlic too close to these.
What kind to Grow, and Where
Garlic isn’t just garlic, there are many different kinds of garlic and they’re almost all different in size, color, shape, taste, number of cloves per bulb, pungency and storage times.
Botanists classify all true garlics under the species Allium Sativum. There are two subspecies; Ophioscorodon, or hard-necked garlics (Ophios for short) and Sativum, or soft-necked garlics. Hardnecks further divide into Rocambole, Purple Stripe, and Porcelain sub-groups although 2 more sub-groups have recently been added: Marbled Purple Stripe and Glazed Purple Stripe. Softnecks have 2 main groups: Artichokes and Silverskins. Artichoke garlics now include the Turban and Asiatic sub-groups. There is yet another group called Creole, long thought to be a sub-group of the Silverskins but the latest DNA studies show them in a separate class by themselves.
So, how do you decide what to grow? I have separate articles covering each of these groups following this article and you will find good information in them. One is a general overview, this one is on basics of growing and cooking garlic, and the ones on hardnecks, softnecks and Creoles will help you decide which type for your climate and which varieties for your taste buds.
Garlic is easy to grow. Great garlic is difficult to grow.
Garlic developed in central Asia with long cold winters, damp cool springs and warm, dry summers. Since then it has been grown around the world and a few needs have changed. Varieties like Rocamboles still need those central Asian conditions. Porcelains and Purple Stripes are more tolerant but still won’t do well in a hot dry spring. Hardneck Rocamboles do poorly in warmer climates.
Garlic tolerates most soils but if you want excellent large and beautiful garlic, you need a healthy soil full of micronutrients and minerals. High concentrations of NPK fertilizers can kill off the healthy microorganisms living in the soil, as can chemical herbicides and pesticides. “If the government requires applicators to wear ‘protective’ clothing (boots, gloves, hoods and masks) to apply it, why would you want to eat it?”  Garlic really needs the minerals and micronutrients more than an abundance of NPK. The soil should have manure and compost added on a regular basis. Rock dusts and minerals can be added; they act like long-time slow-release fertilizers and the garden will continue to maintain fertility for years to come, with fewer applications eventually needed.
Garlic should be planted in the fall in the north. This gives time for sprouting roots to develop before the emerging plants die down with cold winter temperatures. After a few frosts but before the ground freezes hard in my Zone 5b, I cover my garlic bed with 6-8” of straw which helps prevent frost heave. When the ground begins to warm in the spring, I remove the straw so the sun can warm the emerging stalks. Sometimes the fall planted bulbs will sprout enough to send up green shoots before winter. That’s okay… they will die back and grow again in spring.
Garlic likes fertile, well-drained soil so that the bulb is above the water level and the roots deep into the moist soil. Plant the cloves root end down, about 4” deep and 6” apart in the north, and 2-3” deep in the south. Bubils (from the scapes) can be harvested and planted but they will take 2 or more years to produce a large bulb. Some vendors and growers recommend soaking individual cloves in water with bicarbonate of soda for a few minutes, and then dipped in rubbing alcohol (or 140 proof vodka) for 3-4 minutes to kill any pathogens. Use the largest cloves to grow the best bulbs for next year.
If your soil is healthy and fertile you may choose (or not) to add a foliar spray in the spring. A tablespoon each of molasses, seaweed and baking soda in a gallon of water makes a good spray used 2-3 times in spring. Do not use a foliar spray on dry plants, nor spray close to harvest. The leaves will become lush at the expense of the bulb.
When the tops just start to turn yellow/brown and fall over, gently dig the bulbs. There should still be some green inner leaves. When only about 8 green leaves remain, stop watering and let the soil begin to dry. After digging the bulbs, do not wash, just brush off loose dirt and store in dry shade for 2-4 weeks to cure. Treat them gently as they can bruise easily and thus not store well.
Store garlic warm (55-65ºF), dry (40-60% humidity) and in the dark to keep it dormant. Garlic is usually hung to dry and good air circulation is very important.
Lavish, green yard resemble a fantasy for some mortgage holders. You generally tend to put in best endeavors to keep up your grass, yet those cocoa patches appear to be unavoidable. Your neighbor’s yard dependably is by all accounts better. It doesn’t need to be that way, not generally. To guarantee that, here are the best grass mind tips accumulated in a compact way to get you your fantasy yard.
1) Plant local grass as it can adjust to your atmosphere rapidly. It’s less demanding to keep up and won’t get harmed that effortlessly.
2) It’s dependably a smart thought to plant a few bushes and blossoms around your grass.
3) For an impeccable garden, you require soil pH inside the range 6 to 7.2. Get the pH level checked and the dirt treated in the event that it needs that.
4) Ensure that whatever plants you have in your lawn get ample amount of sunlight. Keep them away from shady areas and slopes.
5) Remember that any grass in dark areas must be watered half than usual.
6) Grass in shady areas requires fertilizers more than the grass planted in areas that receive proper sunlight.
7) Don’t let the grass get too tall. Mowing tall grass can put it in shock and also dull the mower blades.
8) Mowing helps your grass grow thicker as the tip of grass blades produce hormones that suppress horizontal growth. When you mow your lawn, you remove grass tips and thus, allow the grass to grow thicker.
9) Find the ideal mowing height. It varies according to the variety of the lawn.
10) Cut the grass when it reaches one-third of the ideal mowing height.
11) If you have long grass at present (maybe you have been lazy since months), don’t mow it all at once. Mow one-third of the lawn each time.
12) Keep varying your mowing patterns. Remember that grass tends to lean in the direction it is mowed. So, when you change the direction each time you mow, you’re doing your lawn a huge favor.
13) Don’t mow when the grass is wet. It will clog the mower and lead to uneven cutting.
14) Sharp mower blades result in good lawn mowing.
15) Don’t let the weeds grow.
16) Weeds mostly grow due to lack of calcium. Ensure that the soil is calcium rich.
17) Aerate your lawn twice a year. Aeration improves the soil and root system.
18) Water early in the morning. It allows the grass to absorb the water properly before it gets evaporated by the sun.
19) Water deeply. 5-6 inches deep is a good measure.
20) Remember that your lawn will grow quickly if you feed it with more nitrogen-rich fertilizers and water it regularly.
21) Best time to fertilize – first six weeks of the growing season.
22) Use cow manure to feed your lawn. It’s the best.
23) Try to opt for organic fertilizers. They benefit your lawn in the long run and also help you do a favor for the environment.
These are the lawn care tips we vow for. They have always helped us achieve best results. Follow them and you would never be disappointed at your efforts.
There are numerous slugs that don’t hurt the people, however a couple of animal varieties do influence our garden and are called cultivate slugs. You truly need to consider about garden slugs as they turn out to be entirely hurtful for your garden and plants. These slugs eat plants speedier than plant development and can really murder quite enormous plants like bushes and little trees. The moderate moving animals are likewise a hazard to horticultural, chowing down on numerous natural products, vegetables, and various types of yields that they may get their disgusting body on. Presently how is it conceivable to keep slugs from hurting and harming our garden? Here are a couple approaches to get help from these irritating patio nursery slugs.
Hand picking is a fundamental technique in disposing of slugs. It won’t not be the most effortless of systems nonetheless, since it will incorporate attempting to locate the disgusting creepy crawlies toward the sides of your garden and utilizing your bear hands to take them on the floor. Make certain to utilize a glove in handpicking slugs to shield your hands from the disturbing ooze that is secured everywhere throughout the bug’s body. You can even utilize a sharp stick and simply spear the bug once you discover it. You can then put them on a compartment where you can heap there bodies and after that discard it or burry it in the ground. This is a modest technique, as well as you will appreciate doing it.
Slugs are not elusive creatures. They are mindless and slow moving insects. It is therefore very effective to use traps in getting rid of these insects. You can try digging a hole in the ground and place a can or other open carrier flattened in the soil surface. Pour soap solution or any other similar solution that kills these insects, in that container. Once the slug falls in this container, it will drown easily.
Iron Phosphate pellets are effective baits that may immediately eliminate the slug after 6 days of consumption. You can purchase it easily from any garden hardware or insect control store. Spread it all over the garden ground and allow it to kill the unwanted slugs.
Those where three of the best methods you can use in getting rid of those garden slugs. It is necessary that you have thorough knowledge on the actual slugs that can cause damage to your gardens foliage so that you can focus on the right pests that you should destroy. They will usually appear after rain fall or when the weather is moist and humid. Be prepared to set out traps and pellet baits while in this weather condition. You can also try cleaning your garden by relocating away dead logs and big rocks that work as resting places for slugs as well as other damaging insects in your garden.